Locals Do This Tourists Don't

Getting Around

Japan’s Most Crowded Train Line Isn’t the One You’ve Heard Of — And It Loses Money Anyway

If you had to guess Tokyo's most crowded train line, you'd probably name one of the famous rush-hour lines that show up ...
Getting Around

Two Trains Leave Haneda Airport for Downtown Tokyo. Locals Pick Differently Depending on the Hour.

Land at Haneda Airport and you're faced with a choice most first-time visitors don't even realize they're making: Tokyo ...
Food & Dining

In Most Countries, the Freezer Aisle Is About Vegetables. In Japan, It’s About 7 AM.

In this series, I've already written about the souzai corner and the bread aisle in Japanese supermarkets. This time it'...
Getting Around

Tokyo’s Last Streetcar Isn’t a Nostalgic Tourist Ride — It’s How Grandma Gets to the Hospital

Tokyo once had an extensive streetcar network. Today only one line survives — the Toden Arakawa Line, now branded "Tokyo...
Getting Around

Tokyo Has a Massive Bus Network. Almost No Tourist Ever Steps Onto It.

Ask about getting around Tokyo and "bus" almost never comes up before "subway" or "Yamanote Line." But the Toei Bus netw...
Local Life & Culture

The Workwear Store in Ueno Built for Construction Sites Is Now a Tourist Magnet From Taiwan to Spain

Bic Uniform's Ueno store sells the unglamorous stuff of Japanese construction sites — coveralls, safety boots, hi-vis ve...
Local Life & Culture

The 25-Square-Meter Denim Shop Hiding Inside Tokyo’s Cheapest, Most Chaotic Market

Ameyoko is where Tokyo goes for cheap dried snacks, knockoff sneakers, and army-surplus jackets — not, on paper, a fashi...
Shopping & Items

Japan’s Eyewear Chains Are Faster and Cheaper Than You’d Expect

If you wear glasses and you're planning a trip to Japan, you might not realize that some of the most convenient — and ch...
Food & Dining

In Most Countries, Bread Is a Side Dish. In a Japanese Supermarket, It’s an Entire Meal.

In part one of this series, I wrote about the souzai (prepared-food) corner in Japanese supermarkets. Right next to it s...
Getting Around

Most Tourists Ride the Yamanote Line for Five Minutes. Some Tokyoites Walk Its Entire 44.7-Kilometer Loop.

The Yamanote Line is the loop nearly every Tokyo visitor rides — a quick, convenient hop between neighborhoods like Shin...